A lady asked me to look at her Glow-worm Spacesaver as her heating and hot water were not working. I first notice the pilot light is still lit, but it has been turned off at the fused spur. The lady joins me at the boiler.
Lady: Do you think it has something to do with the electrics?
Me: Why?
Lady: I was using my washing machine, then the power went off and the heating hasn't worked since.
I look at the consumer unit and see that one of the main isolators has tripped. Resetting the isolator, the boiler starts working. There are no obvious leaks at the boiler or airing cupboard which would cause the electric to trip.
Lady: Do you think that's what the problem was?
Me: The heating won't work without power.
Lady: I don't know why that happened.
Me: Neither do I, maybe you should get an electrician to check it out.
Thursday, 19 April 2012
Hot Water Not Working
The central heating is working, but the hot water is not heating. I switched on the hot water at the timer, and had a look in the airing cupboard. There were two zone valves, and the hot water zone valve was making a slight buzzing noise, but the lever was not moving. I looked at the wiring centre, and there was power at the grey wire to the valve (permanent live) and the brown (calling from the cylinder thermostat).
The valve was a Honeywell V4043H two-port zone valve and the head was jammed, but the spindle was free to turn after the head was removed. I replaced the motorised valve head and the hot water began heating correctly.
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Disclaimer:
The works
described in this blog are a record of work undertaken and should
not be taken as guaranteed to solve your problem.
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Keston Boiler Replacement
Had the pleasure of replacing a Keston K60 boiler which had provided thirteen years of disobedient service today. The design of the boiler looks good and easy to work on, it it is a shame that it has been unreliable.
Fitted a Baxi Solo 24 HE boiler to replace it. The existing boiler was undersized and the customer had got fed up with calling British Gas out to repair it.
Fitted a Baxi Solo 24 HE boiler to replace it. The existing boiler was undersized and the customer had got fed up with calling British Gas out to repair it.
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Disclaimer:
The works
described in this blog are a record of work undertaken and should
not be taken as guaranteed to solve your problem.
|
Wednesday, 18 April 2012
Ideal Classic Sealed System not working
Ideal Classic boiler with the sealed system factory fitted above the boiler not working for heating. The boiler only heats the radiators as the hot water is an Economy 7 immersion heater system.
After switching on the heating at the timeclock, there is some noise from the boiler, but it is not firing up. Through the gaps in the control box I can see there is an LED alight on the PCB, so the boiler is receiving the demand. I remove the sealed system cover, and can feel the pump vibrating. I remove the boiler case, and the fan is not spinning. Spinning the blades using my screwdriver gives it the jump-start to get it going again and the boiler fires up.
I remove the old fan and fit a new one, and everything is working as it should.
After switching on the heating at the timeclock, there is some noise from the boiler, but it is not firing up. Through the gaps in the control box I can see there is an LED alight on the PCB, so the boiler is receiving the demand. I remove the sealed system cover, and can feel the pump vibrating. I remove the boiler case, and the fan is not spinning. Spinning the blades using my screwdriver gives it the jump-start to get it going again and the boiler fires up.
I remove the old fan and fit a new one, and everything is working as it should.
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Disclaimer:
The works
described in this blog are a record of work undertaken and should
not be taken as guaranteed to solve your problem.
|
Potterton Flamingo no heating or hot water
So my brother sends me a text message: "Are you available in an afternoon some time to look at our heating? Pilot light is on but the boiler is not kicking in."
I go round and the pilot is lit. I switch the timer on for heating and hot water, and the boiler lights. I put my hand on the pump and I cannot feel it vibrating. I check to make sure there is power to the pump live, which there is. I switch the pump valves off, and attempt to undo the pump nuts but they won't budge. I try penetrating oil, bigger tools and a little chisel to get them moving but after 30 years they are seized on. I loosen the four allen bolts securing the pump head to the housing and separate them gently to ensure the valves have switched off stopping the water fully. A cups worth of water comes out but no more thankfully. I remove the pump head and use a junior hacksaw to cut a slice in the pump nuts. Inserting suitably sized screwdriver into the new slit I tap it with a hammer to split the brass nut. I hit it in the direction to undo the nut and it starts to come loose so I can put my grips on them and remove the pump body. Now the nuts are no good, but fortunately I have saved some nuts off of pump valves in the past, they are manufactured with cut outs, allowing me to slip them onto the old pump valves. I can now fit the new pump and washers, and successfully heat test the system.
I go round and the pilot is lit. I switch the timer on for heating and hot water, and the boiler lights. I put my hand on the pump and I cannot feel it vibrating. I check to make sure there is power to the pump live, which there is. I switch the pump valves off, and attempt to undo the pump nuts but they won't budge. I try penetrating oil, bigger tools and a little chisel to get them moving but after 30 years they are seized on. I loosen the four allen bolts securing the pump head to the housing and separate them gently to ensure the valves have switched off stopping the water fully. A cups worth of water comes out but no more thankfully. I remove the pump head and use a junior hacksaw to cut a slice in the pump nuts. Inserting suitably sized screwdriver into the new slit I tap it with a hammer to split the brass nut. I hit it in the direction to undo the nut and it starts to come loose so I can put my grips on them and remove the pump body. Now the nuts are no good, but fortunately I have saved some nuts off of pump valves in the past, they are manufactured with cut outs, allowing me to slip them onto the old pump valves. I can now fit the new pump and washers, and successfully heat test the system.
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Disclaimer:
The works
described in this blog are a record of work undertaken and should
not be taken as guaranteed to solve your problem.
|
Monday, 16 April 2012
Baxi Solo HE No Hot Water
Baxi Solo HE no hot water, but heating coming on when hot water is set to be on. Set hot water on and turned cylinder thermostat up, the pump runs but the lever on the Honeywell three-port motorised valve stays in the central heating position.
Look at wiring in junction box. There is power at the orange wire and white wire. The heating is not set to be on and there is no power coming back through the room thermostat. There is power to the cylinder thermostat from the timer. Turn down the cylinder thermostat, the pump stops, and there is power at the grey wire to the motorised valve. The valve stays in the central heating position. I force the mechanism back to the hot water only position, and turn the cylinder thermostat up. The valve stays in this position and the pump and boiler run for hot water. There is no longer any power on the white wire from the motorised valve.
Motorised valve is replaced and the system is tested and running fine.
Look at wiring in junction box. There is power at the orange wire and white wire. The heating is not set to be on and there is no power coming back through the room thermostat. There is power to the cylinder thermostat from the timer. Turn down the cylinder thermostat, the pump stops, and there is power at the grey wire to the motorised valve. The valve stays in the central heating position. I force the mechanism back to the hot water only position, and turn the cylinder thermostat up. The valve stays in this position and the pump and boiler run for hot water. There is no longer any power on the white wire from the motorised valve.
Motorised valve is replaced and the system is tested and running fine.
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Disclaimer:
The works
described in this blog are a record of work undertaken and should
not be taken as guaranteed to solve your problem.
|
Ideal Classic Combi 80
Ideal Classic Combi 80 not working for central heating or hot water. No display on timer, noticed the switch had been turned off on the wall. Turned back on, all working.
However, the system pressure was rising quite quickly with the central heating running. The expansion had been replaced within the last eighteen months, so I drained the system and checked the pressure in the expansion vessel which was at 0.55 bar +/- 0.2bar. I cracked the nut on the expansion vessel flexible tube and there was plenty of pressure there even though the system had stopped draining and the pressure gauge was at zero. I de-pressurised the expansion vessel through the Schrader valve, and removed the flexible connection tube to find that it was blocked at the connection to the boiler pipework. Cleared blockaged, re-assembled, re-pressurised expansion vessel and system. Bled the radiators and heat tested the system, all working fine.
However, the system pressure was rising quite quickly with the central heating running. The expansion had been replaced within the last eighteen months, so I drained the system and checked the pressure in the expansion vessel which was at 0.55 bar +/- 0.2bar. I cracked the nut on the expansion vessel flexible tube and there was plenty of pressure there even though the system had stopped draining and the pressure gauge was at zero. I de-pressurised the expansion vessel through the Schrader valve, and removed the flexible connection tube to find that it was blocked at the connection to the boiler pipework. Cleared blockaged, re-assembled, re-pressurised expansion vessel and system. Bled the radiators and heat tested the system, all working fine.
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Disclaimer:
The works
described in this blog are a record of work undertaken and should
not be taken as guaranteed to solve your problem.
|
About me :)
Hi, welcome to my central heating blog. I am based in Milton Keynes, United Kingdom and have been working as a domestic heating engineer since January 2000.
I have worked for the same company since I began this career. The company carries out work on gas cookers, fires, water heaters, boilers and central heating systems in the Milton Keynes area.
I have level two and level 3 NVQs in Plumbing. I have recently re-sat my gas qualifications at the Gastec training centre in Milton Keynes. My gas qualifications are CCN1 (Domestic Core Gas Safety), CENWAT (Central Heating and Water Heaters), CKR1 (Cookers), CPA1 (Combustion Performance Analysis), HTR1 (Gas Fires and Heaters) and CEN1 (Central Heating Boilers <70kW). I also have the certification to install, maintain and service unvented hot water cylinders. I have also undertaken boiler manufacturer training at Baxi, Potterton, Broag Remeha, Vaillant and Glow-Worm.
Through this blog I hope to share some of my experiences with gas central heating servicing, breakdowns, installation and maintenance.
I have worked for the same company since I began this career. The company carries out work on gas cookers, fires, water heaters, boilers and central heating systems in the Milton Keynes area.
I have level two and level 3 NVQs in Plumbing. I have recently re-sat my gas qualifications at the Gastec training centre in Milton Keynes. My gas qualifications are CCN1 (Domestic Core Gas Safety), CENWAT (Central Heating and Water Heaters), CKR1 (Cookers), CPA1 (Combustion Performance Analysis), HTR1 (Gas Fires and Heaters) and CEN1 (Central Heating Boilers <70kW). I also have the certification to install, maintain and service unvented hot water cylinders. I have also undertaken boiler manufacturer training at Baxi, Potterton, Broag Remeha, Vaillant and Glow-Worm.
Through this blog I hope to share some of my experiences with gas central heating servicing, breakdowns, installation and maintenance.
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